From Bastogne, I made my way past Brussels to Ghent (thanks for the tip Josh!). Ghent is a beautiful city in the Flemish region of Belgium. Old town winds along the river Leie, in fact, the city was once an important medieval port moving grain and wool. Many of the old buildings along the river are direct descendants of a role the city played for many years. The walk along the river is a stunning walk through history.
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- The River Leie
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- A view of town from the river
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- St. Michael’s Church (ca 12th C)
One of the notable views from the river is Castle Gravensteen, which means the castle of the counts. The castle was used by the Counts of Flanders through the mid 1400’s. However, it isn’t the history that will stick with me from my time in the castle. Instead, it was the elementary school tour that followed me into the torture museum section of the castle. I watched in awed wonder as their teacher walked them through every torture device in details! No coddling these kids!
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- “Listen up kids, this is how you stretch someone on the rack.”
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- St Nicholas’s Church
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- A view of St. Nicholas, the bell-tower, and old grain building
Another highlight of my time in Ghent was, again, thanks to Josh’s tip. I had heard of the Flemish painter Jan van Eyck before, but didn’t realize that one of his most famous paintings is housed in the cities St Bavo’s Cathedral. The cathedral itself is a monument to wealth, religion, and art. I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside, but the names of the artists they hang on their wall (including a Rubens) rivals any major gallery. However, it is the Adoration of the Lamb, also known as the Ghent Altarpiece (1432) by Jan and Hubert van Eyck that draws audiences to the cathedral. The cathedral has audio guides to walk viewers through the panels of the oft stolen work of art (http://www.npr.org/2010/12/25/132283848/is-this-the-worlds-most-coveted-painting). I lost track of time as I stared in wonder at a painting from a man who redefined oil painting for generations to come. If you’re interested, the Getty Foundation funded a project to bring the painting to the public. You can view it in incredible detail here: http://closertovaneyck.kikirpa.be/#home/sub=altarpiece).
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- Monument to the Van Eyke brothers with St Bavos in the background
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- Um, I might have taken a picture in the church when I wasn’t supposed to……
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- St. Nicholas and the bell-tower (ca 1313).
Most days as I walk through each different city, I feel as though I’m trying to drink in history from a fire-hose. I take copious notes, walk through random alleys, and gawk my way through cathedrals, castles, and museums. And still I miss much more than I see. I guess it means I’ll need to come back through this way again.